The world of vintage Breitling watches is a fascinating labyrinth of intricate movements, often shrouded in mystery and lacking comprehensive documentation. This article delves into one such enigma: the Breitling Genève 17 jewel movement 0213. While precise details regarding this specific caliber are scarce, we can piece together a picture by examining the broader context of Breitling's history, its movement sourcing, and the characteristics of similar 17-jewel calibers produced during the relevant period. This exploration will also touch upon related topics such as Breitling 17 caliber movements, Breitling B17 movements, Breitling Caliber 17 manual winders, the infamous "Forrest Gump" watch, and the general pricing of Breitling Caliber 17 movements.
Breitling's Movement Sourcing and the Acquisition of Kelek:
Understanding the Breitling Genève 17 jewel movement 0213 requires acknowledging the brand's historical approach to movement production. Breitling, unlike some luxury watch manufacturers, has not always produced its movements in-house. For much of its history, it relied on established ébauche manufacturers – companies that produced basic watch movements which were then finished and customized by Breitling. This practice was common across the industry, allowing brands to focus on their design and finishing expertise while leveraging the economies of scale offered by specialized movement makers.
The acquisition of Kelek in 1997 marked a significant turning point. While the renamed entity, unfortunately, lacks readily available public information in its post-acquisition form, this purchase demonstrates Breitling's increasing ambition to control more aspects of its watchmaking process. Before this acquisition, however, Breitling relied heavily on external sources. Pinpointing the exact manufacturer of the 0213 movement is difficult without access to internal Breitling archives or highly specialized vintage watch databases. However, based on the caliber's specifications (17 jewels), we can make educated guesses.
The 17-Jewel Landscape: Common Ebauche Suppliers and Characteristics:
Seventeen-jewel movements were common in mid-range to high-quality watches produced during the mid-20th century. Several prominent ébauche manufacturers produced calibers with this specification. These include, but are not limited to, ETA, Valjoux, and Venus. These manufacturers produced a wide range of movements, varying in size, functionality (manual wind or automatic), and finishing. The "0213" designation itself suggests a Breitling internal reference number, not a manufacturer's code. This reinforces the idea that Breitling received a base movement and then customized it to its specifications.
The 17-jewel count itself is indicative of a relatively simple, yet robust, movement. The number of jewels indicates the number of jeweled bearings used to reduce friction in the movement. More jewels generally translate to improved longevity and precision, although other factors, such as the movement's design and construction quality, also play a crucial role. A 17-jewel movement would typically be a manual-wind caliber, requiring the wearer to manually wind the mainspring to power the watch. This contrasts with automatic movements, which utilize a rotor to wind the mainspring through the wearer's movement.
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